#26 COLOMBIA

Colombia - the land of empanadas! Crispy fried bundles of meaty deliciousness. Everybody loves empanadas; it's a scientifically proven fact! So, on my last trip to Bogotá in November 2019, my good friend Sandra took me to a place called Fulanitos that prepares the best empanadas in the style of Cali, which means just meat and no rice like they traditionally do in the capital.

I stayed with Sandra in Bogotá for a few days, during which time she took me on a tour of some of the city's best restaurants - Misia, El Chato, and Villanos en Bermudas, just to name a few. We also stopped periodically to split a plate of crispy fried pork belly chicharrones or a hearty bowl of mixed-boiled meats called almuerzo campesino. Not to mention all the coffees, so many coffees! Needless to say, I packed on a few extra pounds during this trip!

Empanadas, Fulanitos, Bogotá, 2018

Bogotá, 2018

Chuleta valluna, Fulanitos, Bogotá, 2018

Café Amor Perfecto, Bogotá, 2018

Botero statue, Medellín, 2008

But this wasn't my first time in Colombia. Back in 2008, I traveled through Bogotá, Medellín, and up to the Darién Gap to explore the abandoned beaches of Triganá and Capurganá. I had a great time, but this was definitely shoestring backpacking, so I wasn't splurging on fancy meals and didn't really experience much of Colombia's diverse cuisines. But what a difference a decade makes! Sure, there were still a few disappointments, like starchy arepas and bone-dry patacones that I've never been able to appreciate, but there were also many fish and meats and adventurous chefs trying new things. Sure, Colombia is no Peru when it comes to seafood, but very few places are. Still, I'll admit that the cebiche at Misia convinced me that coconut milk and avocado are well suited to the cold, spicy, sour fish dish.

Candelaria, Bogotá, 2008

Fritura costeña, Misia, Bogotá, 2018

Chicharrón with hummus, Misia, Bogotá, 2018

Bogotá city view from Monserrate, 2008

Cebiche de pescado con leche de coco y palta, Misia, Bogotá, 2018

Butifarra, Misia, Bogotá, 2018

Botero's Donna en el Sofá, Bogotá, 2018

After Bogotá, I headed to the Caribbean coast for a friend's wedding in tropical Cartagena. It's a beautiful city with a great vibe, but damn, is it hot and humid! I'd just had a new linen suit custom-tailored for the wedding, but the second I put it on, I started to sweat profusely and spent the rest of the evening searching for air conditioning and cold drinks. Otherwise, Cartagena is a lively little city with a fascinating colonial history and beautiful architecture. In terms of food, the highlight for me was the sancocho de pescado at La Casa del Socorro, which is the region's most famous and distinctive fish soup, thickened with cassava and plantains, and served with a whole fried fish on top. It was a delicious soup packed with fishy flavor, even if it was a bit heavy in the midday heat!